A Special Kinda Dotish

At Nazaré on Portugal’s Atlantic coast, the edge of an underwater canyon helps turn an incoming swell into a wall of water. 🌊 The deep canyon runs close to Praia do Norte, where it meets a much shallower seabed. Researchers found that the sudden change in depth bends some waves and sends others back from the canyon’s edge, concentrating their energy towards the beach. The angle matters too, because a swell coming from the west to northwest can line up with the canyon edge better than one of the same size arriving from another direction. Pedro Scooby looks tiny as he drops down the face below the cliff.